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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 9:52 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
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First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I have a harp guitar I'd like to finish. Original design was 12 fret, but I'd like to change to 14. Seems the price I'd pay is possibly having to extend the bridge plate back. Hopefully won't bump into a tone bar. Question is, what roughly us the shift amount?

Mike


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:59 pm
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First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
City: Kansas City
State: MO
Country: USA
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Changing from 12 to 14 moves the bridge closer to the X intersection, not the tone bars. Risk of bridge pin holes destroying the X, unless you're using a pinless bridge. Have you braced the top already?

The shift is around 1 3/8" (just subtract 12th fret position from 14th position). You could also change to a longer scale to keep the bridge closer to its original location.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:49 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
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Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Thanks Dennis. I'll do some measurements to see. 1 & 3/8"?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 10:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
While I got u here, tuners, what u recommend? Another thing I hate is using bridge pins as string risers. Is there anything available in brass?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 1:23 am 
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First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
While I got u here, tuners, what u recommend? Another thing I hate is using bridge pins as string risers. Is there anything available in brass?

For the harp strings, unless you're using a design where you can have the keys sticking out to the side, then Pegheds are the best and lightest weight that I know of. Expensive though. Especially the 16:1 ratio. I use 4:1, which is very touchy. Too touchy on neck strings, I've decided. Not too bad on harp strings. I'll be going to a slothead next time so I can use normal tuners, but probably still 4:1 on the harp strings.

I have the harp strings run straight from the tuners to the bridge, so I can't advise on risers. But I do need to try shoving something under one of the strings and see what it does to the sound, and if they're worth including next time. Or maybe pins to bend the strings horizontally to create a break angle. Certainly could use brass rod stock for that. Or maybe brass tubing with wood core, for aesthetics and the tiniest bit of weight savings :)

On second thought, I do have an idea for string risers... bass guitar fretwire. Glue a block of wood onto the harp headstock with a strip of that in it, so all the strings go up and over it like a saddle.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 2:33 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:54 pm
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Location: Miami, FL
First name: Michael
Last Name: Schreiner
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Zip/Postal Code: 33183
Country: USA
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Status: Semi-pro
I use bone bridge pins as sub-bass risers on my HG builds.

Image

Michael


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:23 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:12 pm
Posts: 6994
First name: Mike
Last Name: O'Melia
City: Huntsville
State: Alabama
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Nice work Michael, what style tuners are you using?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:27 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:54 pm
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Location: Miami, FL
First name: Michael
Last Name: Schreiner
City: Miami
State: FL
Zip/Postal Code: 33183
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Thanks Mike. I use 6 single Schaller SB4 Banjo tuners from Lmii. The other 6 tuners are Schaller M6 Mini 6 on a side from my local music store ( I own a music store). They come with small metal buttons which I replace with a set of #3057 large pearloid buttons from Stewmac.

Michael


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